What is a shower remodel?
A shower remodel replaces or rebuilds the shower itself: the walls, the floor or pan, the waterproofing underneath, the valve and showerhead, and the enclosure. It can be as simple as retiling an existing shower or as involved as turning a tub-and-surround into a large walk-in or curbless shower. The part that matters most is the part you never see, the waterproofing, because that is what keeps a shower from rotting its own walls. For the wider picture, see our guide to bathroom remodeling in Kirkland.
Walk-in showers
A walk-in shower is an open, doorless or glass-paneled shower with a low threshold or none at all. It's the most popular shower upgrade because it makes a bathroom feel larger and is easier to step into than a tub.
How big does a walk-in shower need to be?
The plumbing code sets the floor: a finished shower interior of at least 900 square inches that can contain a 30-inch circle. Because those dimensions are measured after tile and waterproofing go on, the framing has to be a little larger than the finished size. A shower that looks roomy on paper at 30 inches can feel tight in real life, so many designers aim well above the minimum, especially when there's no door to contain the spray.
Doorless layouts and splash control
A doorless walk-in works best when the shower is deep enough, the showerhead faces away from the opening, and a fixed glass panel blocks the spray. In a small bathroom, a door or a longer glass panel keeps the room warmer and the floor drier.
Curbless and zero-entry showers
A curbless, or zero-entry, shower has no raised edge. The bathroom floor flows into the shower and slopes gently to the drain. It's a clean look and a strong choice for accessibility, but it's one of the more technical shower builds.
What makes curbless showers harder
Water has to stay in without a curb to stop it, so the floor needs enough slope toward the drain, typically one-quarter to one-half inch per foot under the plumbing code, and the area outside the shower usually needs to be level or slope slightly back. That often means lowering the shower area into the subfloor, which in a ground-floor or crawl-space home is easier than in a second-story bathroom, where joists limit how much floor can be recessed. Linear drains, which sit along a wall or at the entry, can make the slope simpler to build.
When a curbless shower is a good fit
They suit homeowners planning to age in place, anyone using a mobility aid, and anyone who wants a seamless floor. Read more in curbless shower pros and cons, and see accessible bathroom remodeling for the broader set of aging-in-place changes.
Tile showers
Tile is the most common finish for custom showers, and the choices you make shape both the look and the upkeep.
Wall tile and large-format options
Large-format tiles have fewer grout lines to clean, but they need a flatter wall. Smaller tiles and mosaics handle curved surfaces and sloped floors better, which is why shower floors are usually small tile or mosaic.
Grout, niches and benches
Grout lines absorb dirt and, if unsealed, moisture. Epoxy grout resists staining better than standard cement-based grout but is harder to install. Built-in niches replace shelves that rust and clutter, and a built-in bench adds comfort and safety. Each one adds waterproofing detail, so ask how the niche is built. For tile selection, see bathroom tile and flooring and our comparison of porcelain, ceramic and stone tile.
Glass shower enclosures
Glass enclosures keep water in and light in the room. The main choices are:
- Frameless glass: thicker tempered glass held by clips or hinges with little or no metal framing. It's the most open look and typically the most expensive.
- Semi-frameless: frameless doors with a framed header or panel edges, a middle ground on price and appearance.
- Framed glass: thinner glass in a full metal frame. It's the most economical and the easiest to adjust.
- Fixed panel only: a single pane for a doorless walk-in.
Custom glass is generally measured after the tile is finished, then fabricated, which adds lead time at the end of the project. Make sure the schedule accounts for it, and plan for a temporary curtain in the meantime.
Shower pans and waterproofing
This is the part of a shower remodel that decides whether it lasts. Tile and grout shed most water but not all of it, so a waterproof layer has to sit behind the tile and under the shower floor, and every joint, corner, niche and valve penetration has to be sealed.
Shower pan options
- Prefabricated pans: acrylic, fiberglass or solid-surface bases that arrive pre-sloped and sealed. They are quick and predictable, and a good fit for standard sizes.
- Pre-sloped foam pans with a bonded membrane: lightweight, tile-ready trays that allow custom sizes and curbless layouts.
- Site-built mortar pans: a sloped mortar bed over a liner or membrane. Flexible in size and shape, but dependent on the installer's craftsmanship. Under the plumbing code, a liner extends at least 3 inches above the finished curb or threshold.
Membranes and testing
Sheet membranes and liquid-applied membranes both create a bonded waterproof layer over the walls and floor. Many installers flood-test the finished pan before tiling by plugging the drain and holding water in it, which reveals leaks while they are still cheap to fix. Our article on how to waterproof a shower goes into the details.
Valves, temperature control and flow
Washington's plumbing code requires shower valves that protect against sudden temperature changes, such as pressure-balancing, thermostatic or combination valves, and limits showerhead flow to 2.5 gallons per minute. A remodel is the best time to upgrade the valve, since reaching it later means opening the wall.
How a shower remodel works
Plan and measure
The contractor checks the existing walls, floor and plumbing, confirms the drain location, and settles shower size, type and finishes.
Demolition
The old shower or tub, wall surfaces and often the floor are removed. This is when hidden water damage or rot is found.
Rough-in and framing
The valve, drain and any framing changes are done, and blocking is added in the walls for niches, benches and future grab bars.
Waterproofing and testing
Pan and wall membranes go in, and the pan is tested.
Tile and grout
Tile is set, grouted and sealed where needed, with curing time between steps.
Fixtures and glass
The trim, showerhead and glass enclosure are installed once everything is cured and measured.
The bathroom remodel timeline shows how long each phase typically takes.
What affects shower remodel cost
The biggest drivers are the shower type (prefab versus custom tile, curbless versus curbed), the amount of tile and how complex the layout is, glass type, whether the drain or valve moves, and any rot or damage found at demolition. We don't publish prices, but the bathroom remodel cost guide explains how to compare quotes line by line.
Shower remodels in Kirkland and nearby
In Kirkland, a full shower rebuild usually counts as an interior remodel with drywall removal, which the city lists as permit work. Retiling alone is treated as finish work, but only when no plumbing or electrical changes are made and accessibility features aren't altered. Condominium owners also need homeowner association approval. On the lake side of the city, such as Houghton, shoreline and critical-area rules can apply. Owners in older neighborhoods like Juanita often find original single-tub bathrooms where a larger shower is the main goal. For the full picture of what's involved, see Kirkland bathroom remodeling.
Questions to ask before you hire
- What waterproofing system will you use on the walls and the floor, and how is it tested?
- Is the shower pan prefabricated, foam, or site-built, and why?
- Will you add blocking in the walls for grab bars, a bench or a niche?
- Who orders and measures the glass, and how will the schedule handle that lead time?
- How will hidden rot or damage be handled and priced?
- What is your Washington L&I registration number, and who pulls the permit?